Fashion & Textile2020produced

SIGNA

Every mark the studio owns, put on one jacket

The jacket flat on white, the whole front covered edge to edge in pale gold marks bleached out of the indigo

The back of the jacket flat on white, the same vocabulary of marks spread across the shoulders — The back

The jacket laid open on concrete in daylight, the marks reading warmer against the stone — On the ground, in daylight

The jacket on concrete seen from the side, the collar turned up — Turned

The jacket folded on concrete, the back and one sleeve showing together — Folded

A black denim jacket carrying the whole vocabulary at once. Every mark the studio had been making on paper for two years is here, bleached straight into the indigo: the ladders, the small framed squares, the crosses, the crescents, the scribbled clouds, the standing figures no bigger than a fingernail. Nothing repeats and nothing is centred.

A folded sleeve lying across the body of the jacket, marks running over the seam without breaking — The marks cross the seams

The button placket close up, a row of steel buttons with bleached marks running between them — Along the buttons

The chest pocket close up, a bright bleached streak running down beside it — The pocket

The method is the paper method moved onto cloth. Bleach lifts the dye out of the denim rather than adding anything to it, so every mark arrives somewhere between gold and rust depending on how long it was left, and none of them can be taken back. The jacket had to be finished in one pass, because a second pass over a dry mark makes a hole.